Liz's Travel Blog

Saturday, June 10, 2006

Saturday Thoughts of Yangshou

Some of you have commented on my titles. So, I’ve decided to make my subtitles just as interesting. I have divided this entry into three sub-sections:

1. How “Frodo-the-Friendly” could not evade the Old Chinese Lady
2. Our Light show experience: a prelude to Olympics 2008?
3. " God Save the Queen” and the DJ that played Dr. Dre

If you think they are interesting subjects, read on.

How “Frodo-The-Friendly” could not evade the Old Chinese Lady

Today, we rented some bikes and took a Saturday afternoon bike ride towards Moon Hill, a traveler’s attraction here in Yangshou. The bike ride was about 45 minutes towards the hill, and we passed by the same type of tall skinny “hills” that looked like large mounds. They are everywhere and its shape is very surreal. It is a beautiful sight to see and take photos. Along our ride, we also saw parts of the Li River, where you can watch the bamboo river tours take place. We were hoping to get off the beaten path and take a more rugged biker’s route, however we may have missed the route entrance because before we knew it, we finally arrived at the foot of the mountain, where we parked our rented bikes outside. The sun was at full blast today, but we were prepared to go on our hike up the hill.

Almost immediately a swarm of Chinese women approached us—their english was pretty good and they seemed friendly. But we soon realized that they were there to sell expensive food and juice. We kindly declined, but one of the women stuck by us, asking “how about a little later? Later on?” She kept following us into the Moon Hill park entrance and suddenly I understood what was happening. The group of women were there to sell their goods, and each woman was “assigned” to a given group of tourists seeking to climb the hill. Could the hill be so bad that tourists would be forced to buy a cold sprite or mango juice? It was a total business. However, we declined and continued on.

With our assigned “drink lady” at our tails, we hiked a long set of stairs, passing by some Norwegians (who also had their “assigned lady”). We had to stop every 5 or 10 minutes to rest, and when we turned around, our drink lady was still there! At one of the stops, as we were trying to politely decline the offers, two Irish guys were trying to run up some stairs. In fact, they were trying to run away because they were being chased by another drink lady, who wanted to sell them a drink as well! One of them (who looked like Frodo from Lord of the Rings) said “cheers” to us and kept on. I started to giggle at the scene as these robust women followed them. Soon, all of us, including Frodo-the-Friendly, started laughing at the whole scene and he sarcastically asked if there was an elevator around.

We finally made it to one part of the “hump” of the mountain top and there we took photos (again with our drink lady waiting for us). Then it was on to a 10 minute uphill climb on a muddy trail to reach the top of Moon Hill, which we made. As we hiked up, we saw Frodo-the-Friendly and friend make their descent down. All this time, the drink lady was behind. We stood at the top of Moon Hill, realizing our amazing feat. We were sweaty, tired, mosquito-bitten, and now hungry. Our calves had gotten their work out for the day and now it was time to return back. Admittedly, the drink ladies added an extra workout challenge since we wanted to evade them. It was another 30 minutes down the hill and a hop back on our bikes. But, in the end, I would consider the hike on Moon Hill great and it amazes me that those drink ladies do this the whole day—hiking up the hill and back. They must be in good shape and they could possibly be amazing athletes. Before we left, our drink lady showed us a book where tourists signed. It included some foreign coins. I pulled out a US quarter and gave it to her and she taped it next to the other foreign coins in her book.

As we left, we saw a bunch of shirtless Australians, apparent expert hikers (without shirts for all you ladies) running up the hill. But they were doing it not to evade their drink lady, but to get a good work out. Their drink lady, huffing and puffing, was still attempting to follow them. Amazing.

Later that night in our hostel, I commented to my traveling mates about Frodo-the-Friendly and his interaction with the drink ladies. We turned around to head down the stairs to see a light show that evening and lo and behold, Frodo-the-Friendly was heading up the stairs and he squeezed in a “hi” to us. In fact, I learned that they were a couple of rooms down from us. Crap, I hope he didn’t hear my nickname for him! But, my advice (and lesson) to him from earlier in the hike would be: The only way to evade an old Chinese “drink lady” is to act like a shirtless Australian and run the hell up that hill.

Evening Light Show experience: a prelude to Olympics 2008?

That evening, the three of us had dinner and then paid for the town’s 7:30 PM light show, which was directed and by a famous Chinese choreographer (who contributed to “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon” and “Hero”, I believe). We met some Americans along the way, who had been teaching English in China for the last year. It turned out we were all sitting next to each other in an outdoor Greek-style theatre, which faced a still lake. The amazing large green hills were in the background and we sat in an anxious state of darkness until the program began.

Then, in the next hour or so, we saw Chinese actors on bamboo rafts move to the music beats between white spotlights. Actors were dressed in local Chinese garb and they held torches to light certain romantic scenes. Near the end, a large lighted floating moon skimmed the water and lines of Chinese actors donned lighted costumes, moving to the flowing choreography.

In the end, the show was worth watching, and I could only think about what will be in store for the world when Beijing hosts the opening Olympics ceremony ---centuries of cultural dances and music mixed in with modern lighting and perfected acrobatics. Romantic slow beats and operatic singing mixed in with fast drums and skilled footwork. It would definitely rock.

“God Save the Queen” and the DJ that played Dr. Dre

Okay, last story for the evening. Fast forward to our return to the main street, where on a Saturday night, people were out and about. So there we were, exhausted but sitting at a local bar. We were very satisfied from a great hike earlier in the day and a light show in the evening. All we wanted to do was watch a World Cup game and perhaps party it up a bit! We dropped by a bar that had people glued to the screen as England just scored a goal against its opponent. We sat and ordered some drinks and I also ordered some banana crepes—random food, I know. While we watched, one of the Chinese waitresses showed us (or reminded us) how to play Chinese checkers.

Suddenly, victory by England! Within seconds, the bar owner played the English national anthem on the speakers! Four men stood up (one on his chair) and started singing to it. It was funny. The song ended, and as they turned to leave, we realized, it was the same Australians that hiked up Moon Hill! This time, they had their shirts.

We smiled as we left the bar for a couple of other bars that played hip-hop music. We found an amazing DJ, who didn’t have any Justin Timberlake songs, but he sure knew Common, Dr. Dre and Snoop Dog. And so, we danced the night away among the locals and tourists as we danced and rapped out loud to “California Love”. The bar locals probably thought we were funny Asian girls as we chanted, “L.A, where you at?!” but guess what? We attracted a crowd and before we knew it, the semi-filled dance floor became full. Yeah, that’s what happens when you’re with us. Peace out until the next episode (or entry!!).